An external wall insulation system is a thermally insulated, protective, decorative exterior cladding procedure involving the use of expanded polystyrene, mineral wool, polyurethane foam or phenolic foam, topped off with a reinforced cement based, mineral or synthetic finish and plaster.
Fiberglass is an inorganic material, and as such, is a noncombustible insulation material that is not flammable. The main issue that arises is that many people will apply vapour retardant to the surface, and the vapour retardants that are commonly used are flammable.
Glassfibre insulation is made from strands of glass fibre and temporarily loses its thermal resistance when it gets wet. However, if it can dry out and has not become compacted, it will retain its insulating properties. Wet insulation in a closed wall cavity will usually not rapidly dry out.
The Energy Saving Trust reckons cavity insulation typically costs up to £720 to install (including building work), and can save between £70 and £250 per year, depending on your home. Loft insulation costs up to £400 and can save between £120 and £220 a year.
Flame resistance is, naturally, a primary consideration for insulation in the home. Materials are noncombustible, and remain so for the life of the product. They require no additional fire-retardant chemical treatments—in fact, unfaced fiberglass and mineral wool are accepted as a fire block in wood frames.
If you’ve ever touched fiberglass insulation with your bare hands, you’re probably well aware of its effect on the skin. … The good news is that skin irritation caused from touching fiberglass tends to go away, but the bad news is that it can last for days if you continue to wear the same tainted clothes.
A common mistake made by many is to use polystyrene or Kingspan type insulation in the mistaken belief that these are good soundproofing materials but they are not. Adequate loft insulation will help soundproof this area by absorbing some of the noise that comes through the roof.
Insulating your loft, attic or flat roof is a simple and effective way to reduce heat loss and reduce your heating bills. Loft insulation is effective for at least 40 years and it should pay for itself many times over.
Building regulations around the world require loft insulation to reduce heating and air conditioning bills. In the UK the minimum is 270mm (11”) and many houses have more than that. That’s much higher than your joists, which are typically only 100mm or less. If you squash it down to 75mm joists, it loses 60%.
The trick with loft insulation is to balance the amount of insulation you have with the amount of ventilation necessary to prevent damp. Current government recommendations is for loft insulation to achieve a depth of between 250mm and 270mm but some new properties are increasing their level of loft insulation to 300mm.
Before you start laying boards, check the depth of your insulation. Government guidelines recommend a minimum 270mm thickness of insulation blanket. But joists are usually no more than 100mm deep, so this would be impossible to achieve and still put a floor on top.
The recommended depth of blanket style insulation (glass or mineral wool) for a loft is 250 to 270 mm. If you already have insulation, but it was put in some time ago, it is worth checking the depth, as only a few years ago the recommended depth of insulation was 200mm, and before that it was as low as 100mm.
Typical Insulation Lifespan. The International Association of Certified Home Inspectors states that spray foam insulation, wrap tape and housewrap insulation can last for more than 80 years. At the same time, cellulose, loose-fill, foamboard, loose fill and rock wool insulation can last up to 100 years.
External wall insulation can prevent future damp on walls from condensation but it won’t mask existing problems of water penetration. If you have burst guttering, roof problems or rising damp, make sure you get those items repaired at the same time, or prior to the insulation being installed on the walls.
It is used to insulate houses that do not have cavity walls. External wall insulation is attached to the outside walls of a house, covered in several protective layers, and finished off with either render or another decorative finish
Rigid insulation boards are around 2 ½ – 4 inches thick, and made of plasterboard backed with insulation material, usually foamed plastic.
Internal Wall Insulation (IWI) is applied to the internal walls of a building. It typically consists of dry lining in the form of pre-insulated plasterboard or built-up systems using fibrous insulation such as mineral wool held in place using a studwork frame.
The generally accepted cost for internal wall insulation is between £40 and £50/m² — but it can reach over £100/m2 when a new stud wall is built. The cost of internal wall insulation will vary according to the type of insulation specified and the condition of the existing wall.
If you’re installing cavity wall insulation, it’s worth opting for a modern insulating material with proven performance! EPS (expanded polystyrene beads) and polyurethane foam are the most commonly used these days, and with good reason.
Internal solid wall insulation works by adding a thermal layer of material to the existing wall. Internal solid wall insulation, rather than external, is particularly appropriate where you need to maintain the external appearance of the building (e.g. in a heritage context).
Although some builders began insulating cavity walls in the late 1970s, it only became compulsory under building regulations to do so during the 90s.
Most cavity wall insulation is perfectly safe – but it depends on the material used, and the quality of the workmanship. Modern retrofit cavity wall insulation methods pose no threat to those living in the home, but if your walls were insulated decades ago, you may want to check what was used.
There are two other materials commonly used for cavity wall insulation – foam and bonded polystyrene beads. If properly installed, these materials should theoretically be superior to mineral-wool fibre, as they are inherently waterproof. Neither material is used as widely as mineral-wool fibre because of cost.
The ultimate guide to cavity wall insulation. Around one third of the heat loss from most homes is through the walls, so cavity insulation could save you up to £160 a year in heating bills. In fact, according to these figures from the Energy Saving Trust website it could pay for itself within less than 5 years.
Insulation creates a barrier to heat gain and loss in ceilings, roofs, floors, and walls. It is a cost-effective and practical way to keep your house warmer in winter and cooler in summer. It may also reduce condensation, decreasing your chances of damp and mould.
The cavity wall is injected with insulating material by drilling holes in the external wall, through the mortar joint. Holes are generally of 22-25mm diameter and are ‘made good’ after injection. Each hole is injected in turn, starting at the bottom.
Paying for someone to insulate your pipes—as a project on its own—may not make economic sense. But having the insulation done during new construction of a home, during other work on your water heater or pipes, or insulating the pipes yourself, is well worth the effort.
It has an additional wrap-around self-seal plastic coating making it highly resistant to mechanical impact. As well as protection from physical damage, Armaflex Tuffcoat Outdoor Pipe Insulation is also an excellent solution for those who require waterproof external pipe insulation.
Armaflex Protect is flexible fireproof pipe insulation for piping located in walls or ceilings. It provides fire resistance of up to 120 minutes and also has thermal insulation properties. Suitable for pipes made from copper, steel and cast iron, as well as flammable materials such as multi-layer, PE, PP or PVC.
Wrapping the pipes in foam insulation can help lower their exposure to the elements, reducing the chance of freezing. Pipe insulation comes in a variety of sizes, and you should be able to install it easily. Insulating outside water pipes can help prevent damage from freezing.
The best way to stop condensation from forming on pipes is to prevent the warm, humid air from coming into contact with the chilled pipe’s outer surface. … If traditional pipe insulation gets wet from pipe sweating or water spillage, it can trap the water and cause CUI (Corrosion Under Insulation).
You can paint foam pipe insulation, provided you use the right type of paint. Thermal barrier paint is well suited for the job because it holds up well to high temperatures.
This industry leading underground insulation is based on Armaflex Class O Nitrile Foam insulation which has an additional wrap-around self-seal plastic coating. Alternatively, you can also use regular Armaflex class O underground pipe insulation to insulate your underground pipes.
Polyethylene is a flexible plastic foamed insulation that is widely used to prevent freezing of domestic water supply pipes and to reduce heat loss from domestic heating pipes. The fire performance of Polyethylene is typically 25/50 E84 compliant up to 1″ thickness.
The thickness of pipe insulation for most common residential cold water pipes is 1/2″ thick. There is usually no additional benefit of adding more than 1/2″ thick fiberglass or rubber pipe insulation to cold water piping.
Armaflex® Pipe Insulation. Armaflex® pipe insulation is manufactured from a CFC free, closed cell, nitrile rubber foam. … This product can be used in hot or cold applications and is often used to insulate chilled water lines, air conditioning ductwork, heating systems and refrigeration pipe work.
Flexible EPDM Pipe Insulation. EPDM rubber-based elastomeric pipe insulation is flexible, lightweight, UV resistant, and requires no outdoor weather protection.
Insulation jacketing consists of an outer covering that is wrapped around tubing or pipe insulation to protect the insulation from moisture, wear and mechanical damage.
Phenolic foam insulation is the most energy efficient insulation availble for any given thickness.
All mineral wool insulation is made from basalt, a volcanic rock, and bound with a thermosetting resin.
Insulation can help keep a pipe closer to the temperature of the water inside the pipe, but it does not add heat to the pipe and will not prevent freezing if the pipe is exposed to prolonged freezing temperatures.